Quito

I am staying at Community Hostel in Quito, and it is lovely.

I got really lucky because I had originally planned to stay at Secret Garden, but it was totally booked. As I was searching, I discovered this place, which also happens to have a non-profit wing. 10% of the profits are donated to a Dutch-run foundation that helps children of single mothers. I asked the owner of this hostel what his motivation was for donating the money, and he said that he looked into local foundations, and this was the most reputable. Additionally, credit card companies charge a 6% fee, and he would rather a percentage of the profits go to children vs. credit card companies. No visa accepted here! Interesting... It would be interesting to see if this would be a model that could catch on - convince hostels not to accept credit cards, and instead donate to a particular program that benefits children. In the US, there would also be a tax incentive. I wonder if that is true here as well. I also wonder how much money actually gets donated... I definitely have more questions to ask.

Aside from the non-profit aspect, the hostel is great because it lives up to its name. In the morning, everyone woke up early and had delicious $2 breakfast of eggs, guac, fruit salad and yogurt together around a large dining room table. We all decided to go to the center of the Earth by bus after breakfast.

The equator line was cool, though obviously very touristy. It was fun to get some photos standing in both hemispheres. As the 6 of us headed back to Quito, it began to downpour. To make matters worse, the bus didn't exactly take us where we wanted to go, so we stood out in the rain trying to hail a cab. Luckily, cabs are extremely cheap here and the total cost was a dollar each.

As soon as we got back to the hostel, I made plans to stay much longer than I originally planned. After talking to people, it seems like the best approach is to arrange a hostel in Quito and just take day trips. I will be here for about a week.

In the afternoon, a few of us went to get chai at a fancy coffee place. We went with an Ecuadorean guy who works at the hostel, Obbi. He was telling us all about the currency crash in 1999, when the country converted to dollars. He talked about how the government was corrupt, and certain elite people knew to convert their money ahead of time while others lost tens of thousands of dollars. He also explained that the current restrictions on converting money in Venezuela and Argentina are to prevent a similar situation, though many people simply convert their money on the black market. It was a really interesting discussion.

For dinner, I headed with some of the boys to get Chinese food. It was a struggle to decipher the menu, especially the Spanish term for lo mien, but after the waiter had a good laugh at us, I ended up with a rice and vegetables plate.

Later, the entire hostel ended up at a new microbrewery that hasn't officially opened yet. Because the brewery doesn't have a license to sell alcohol, you had to knock on the door to be let in, then you pay a suggested donation for your drink.

Upon returning to the hostel, I had a long discussion about the viability of after school programs run and staffed by foreign volunteers with a guy who runs Strive, a non-profit that sends 18-20 high school athletes to Kenya or Peru each summer to volunteer building schools, etc. They are currently expanding to incorporate a year-long volunteer after school program for the students at the schools they already work with. It sounds like a really amazing program. The organization kind of synthesizes my experiences in the working world thus far - high school summer program, teaching, and Fairplay. I wonder if there is some way for me to get more involved in the organization...

I almost forgot the best part of the hostel... For $20, I am sleeping in a private room with a king sized bed!

Flying to Ecuador

I spent the day so excited about Ecuador that I couldn't really enjoy Lima. In the morning I wandered around aimlessly, and ended up at the Whole Foods of Peru. I walked the aisles, looking for familiar foods. I spotted Oreos, Prngles, and Hellmans salad dressing! Nothing too exciting, so I left with an empty stomach and headed to a small restaurant to order a tamale. I need to stop expecting Peruvian tamales to taste like Colorado tamales. It wasn't my favorite. After eating, I stopped into a camera store that actually had my charger, but it was double what it was in Cusco -160 soles. I am kicking myself for not buying it when I had the chance. I will keep looking in Ecuador; hopefully they will have a reasonably priced charger. Luckily, I still have a bit of battery life left as well as a backup camera.

The one thing I did purchase today was Lonely Planet Ecuador. I spent a good part of the afternoon laying out in the fog on the hostel roof reading through it and Googling all of the places listed. Night planes are the worst because the anticipation of being somewhere new is crippling!

Around 2, Sebas picked me up to drop my suitcase off at his house. I am leaving the majority of my things in Peru so that I don't have to cart it all around with me. He will hang onto my Bolivian blanket, a lot of winter clothes, and all of the alpaca sweaters I have acquired. I feel like Ecuador will be a lot warmer - I hope that is true!

Sebas and I grabbed dinner at a pollo a la brasa place, and then I arrived at the airport way too early. They always say you need to be at the airport three hours early for an international flight, but in my experience, I am always there and the airport staff are not. The two lanes for Tame were both closed until 6:30 pm, and I arrived at 5:30.

One weird airport observation - there are these machines that wrap your stuff up in florescent green plastic wrap for 35 soles. It seems excessive, but tons of people were doing it. I also observed this phenomenon in Miami, but it wasn't utilized to this extent. Almost everyone was doing it!

Another weird airport observation - unlike all American airports, Lima does not announce your flight. When they begin boarding, they begin boarding. No warning, no reminder... You just pay attention. This is not my favorite approach, and it surely didn't help my paranoia about missing my flight while intensely staring at the gate for two hours, but at least it is quiet... Until a small fleet of 7 year old Ecuadorian cheerleaders arrive in the waiting area. Then it isn't so quiet. I found it amusing that these little girls play the same slapping hands game that my students played in the US. Some things are universal.

At the airport, I had plenty of time to make friends. I made one friend with a girl my age while waiting for Tame to open. As we were boarding 3 hours later, she asked me where I had been, and said she was looking for me because she had VIP access at the airport and had gotten free food, drinks and wifi! I wish I knew! Instead, I was in the normal waiting area, making friends with the 7 year old child who plopped down next to me. She was adorable, and blushed when she asked me to teach her a little English. She was very talkative. I thought it would be easier to talk to kids in Spanish since it would seem that they would have simpler vocabularies. In reality, though, it is tricky to talk to a little kid because they can't anticipate what words I will know or not know the same way an adult would. They also get really confused when I don't recognize seemingly common words. Talking to kids reminds me at while my Spanish is much better than it was, it sometimes seems better than it really is because I just keep having the same conversation over and over with different people. I am a master at talking about where I have traveled or how much I paid for my sweater, but when it comes to voicing opinions, I am lost. The fact that I was able to get by in Spanish, though, both with the adult and the kid, is promising. I definitely would not have been able to say anything two months ago.

Currently reading David and Goliath by Malcolm Gladwell, and it is excellent.

Technical Difficulties

This morning I went back to La Lucha for brunch, then to a huge department store for a shopping spree. All of the pants I brought with me on this trip have stopped functioning. Both jeans have serious problems with the zippers and I also discovered this morning that my leggings have a giant hole. I replaced the pants, and found a shirt and sweater to add to the 6 shirt rotation.

After shopping, I headed toward the beach to walk along the coast. When I arrived, I landed in Love Park, where there is a full on statue of people making out. There are also tiled walls with lovesick phrases in Spanish. It was weird. I quickly headed out of there, and on to the section of the park/coast where people exercise. I happened to think it was also a nice place to sit, but watching the other people use the free exercise equipment made me feel like getting a snack, so I headed toward the next section where there are restaurants and stores. As soon as I saw The Gap, I knew I had to get out of there, too. Lima is a bit too much like America some times. So I continued on my walk until I spotted a very strange store. At first, it looked like the store was a flea market of sorts, with bins of unorganized clothes and signs saying everything in is bin is 9 soles or everything in the bin is 5 soles. I almost passed it up entirely, but it was packed with Peruvians, and it wasn't The Gap. It ended up being my favorite store in Lima. It is where Marshalls clothes go to die. One bin was full of Theory. Another bin had only Rock and Republic shirts. Nothing was more than 4 American dollars. I doubled my possessions in 30 minutes and ended up paying no more than $20. I am already excited to go back in November when I am back in Lima.

After the second shopping spree, I had to go back to the hostel to try everything on again and to make sure everything fit into my bag! It does! Then I headed off to dinner at an Arabic restaurant. After eating at La Lucha for all of my meals so far, I thought I would mix it up. The felafel plate was an excellent choice, but I still needed a McDonald's ice cream after I finished. While at McDonald's, I discovered a mini crisis. Gmail finally realized I left the country, and blocked me out of my own email. The only ways to get back into my email were 1- have them text me (my phone is long gone) or 2-have them email my backup email (at Achievement First... so that won't work either). Luckily, Ali saved the day by logging into my account from America while I stress ate a second ice cream. The main concern I had a out being locked out of my email was that I wouldn't be able to access my flight info for tomorrow.

Speaking of tomorrow's flight, I tried to check in to my flight, but that was an ordeal. The computer at the hostel does not have a functioning keyboard, so you have to type everything in on the screen. I have never seen anything like it. It was kind of like the calculator app on tne computer, but with a keyboard. Eventually, I gave up because not only is the Tame Airlines website in Spanish, but it also doesn't have a check-in section. I then tried on my iPad, but for some reason it kept saying my flight couldn't be found. After the Cusco flight mishap, I started to worry that I messed up again, so I tried calling Tame from the hostel phone. After 5 minutes of unsuccessfully navigating the Spanish operating system, the receptionist took over, and got me on the line with someone who confirmed my flight, but expressed a great deal of concern about my one way flight. While it seems pretty logical to me to have one flight and then take the bus back, this is apparently going to be a challenge tomorrow. Fortunately, because of all of the check-in and computer drama, I was forced to talk to this human, and he said to simply bring a print out of my departure itinerary from Lima. Easy enough.

Farewell Cusco!

In the morning, I grabbed a quick fruit salad at the hostel and then headed to the airport. I arrived an hour and a half early, though I could have gotten there 5 minutes before my flight and it would have been fine. This airport was a breeze. There were no lines, having a full water bottle in my backpack wasn't cause for alarm, and I didn't even have to take off my shoes. It was wonderful. I even paid 5 soles for a ten minute massage outside of the terminal. Had I been less irrationally paranoid about the time, I definitely would have paid for a longer massage! It was much needed after carrying all of my bags the 5 feet from the cab to the free bag check.

The taxi people on the way to the airport are also worth talking about. I happened to hop into a cab that had not only a friendly driver, but also a wife and 8 month old baby! They were amazing people who were very interested in how much things cost in the US and in how much people make. I have found it slightly awkward and embarrassing when people ask me how much I make in the US. These taxi people were the 5th people who asked that question, and it  is clear that it is a completely normal topic of conversation here. Me telling them my teacher salary led to an interesting conversation about teacher salaries here in Cusco. According to the driver, teachers here earn about $450 US a month, but they only work 5 hours a day, 25 hours a week. And, the cost of living here is very different.

I was kind of shocked to learn the schools are only open for 5 hours a day. This brought up so many questions for me, but we soon arrived at the airport, so I never had a chance to ask...

Arriving in Lima was smooth. The hostel driver was holding a little plaque with my name, so he was easy to spot. My hostel, Pariwana, is small, but cute, with a rooftop deck. The beds are super comfy, and I am in a room with two other girls that I have yet to see. Across the street from the hostel is an excellent sandwich restaurant. I stopped there for lunch/dinner, and the food was amazing. Around my hostel there are a bunch of US fast food places - from Dunkin Donuts to Pizza Hut to KFC. There are also a couple of malls, and, of course, small boutique style places and normal Peruvian restaurants. Lima definitely has a very different feel from Cusco; Lima is a big, modern city while Cusco has hilly alleys, sacred ruins, and tourist shops.

In the evening, I coordinated with Ali's friend Sebas to meet at a club for a Spanish electronica concert. The music was excellent, but when it ended, it turned into salsa, which is not something I would say I am a natural at. Sebas's friends were all very nice, especially one girl with bright yellow hair who spends half her time living in Orlando and the other half in Lima. The club we went to was cool because it clearly wasn't geared toward tourists. It was nice to feel like I was experiencing what Peru is actually like vs. what it is like when you are an outsider.

Day Trip to Pisac

I ran into the Irish people last night on my way back from Jack's, and made plans to meet them at 8 this morning to head to Pisac. Since I went to bed around 8pm last night, waking up early was easy. I got to the Plaza de Armas a half hour before Naive and Liam, so I people watched by the fountain. The one thing I observed was that when Peruvian men take tourist photos, the goal is not to smile, but to look as angry as possible.

Once Liam and Naive arrive, we took a 3 sole combi to Pisac. It was an amazing drive. They call it The Sacred Valley for good reason - the views of the cliffs, mountains, and terracing is stunning. Once we got there, we viewed the ruins from below and spent the majority of our time at the market. A lot of the stuff there was the same stuff I have been seeing in Cusco, and even Bolivia, but there were a couple of unique finds. I bought a colorful hand woven wall hanging of the Incan calendar and a hand painted sugar bowl. I really like all of the kitchen stuff, but it seems like it would be really fragile and difficult to transport.

We returned to Cusco by noon, and I met up with Krystie for lunch... She has traveled extensively through Southeast Asia, so she helped me map out a potential trip if I decide to continue traveling.

The Black Market

I finally made it to the black market today! I went with Sam and Krystie, the people I work with that are from Australia. I bought a $1 iPad charger because I misplaced mine, a new 50 cent lock to replace the faulty REI one, $2 fake Raybans to replace the sunglasses I lost, and a 3 sole grandpa sweater. I pretty much went there just to replace all of the stuff I once owned. The grandpa sweater is by far the best find. The key to the black market is to go early and to know what you are looking for. Electronics (headphones, chargers, phones), fake sunglasses, scarves, and leggings are popular finds. Even though the prices are lower, the quality is often much poorer, so be willing to settle.

Staying Healthy Abroad

This morning I woke up and took a look at myself in the mirror and found one of my eyes was twice the size of the other. I am not sure what happened, but it is not a good look.

When I told Krystie, my roommate, about my eye, her response was, "Which one?! The big one or the small one!?" I know my eyes are big, but...

Then, after the eye debacle, I tried to open my locker and the lock stopped working! It wouldn't open! So I told Sam, my other roommate, and he simply clipped it with his pocket knife! Good to know my fancy REI lock was so secure, right? Luckily, Sam had an extra lock that he gave me to use until I get a new one.

After all of that, I went upstairs to the bar to get something for breakfast/lunch. While up there, I met someone that lives in North Beach, SF! Small world. He suggested putting a chamomile tea bag on my eye, and it sort of worked. Now I look more like Woody Allen and less like I got into a fight last night.

Happy 90th day of travel to me!

Talking Politics and Alternative Medicine

This morning I had the breakfast shift with Julia. She used to live in Ecuador, so she helped me revise my planning. I am probably not going to have enough time to visit the coast in Ecuador, but I am looking forward to visiting the cloud forest in Mindo and riding horses in Cotopaxi National Park!

I know I have talked a lot about food prices, but they really don't make much sense. The normal meals cost 15-20 soles, but if you inquire about the meal of the day, you can have a three course meal for 5 soles, or $1.25.

I was eating my three course meal alone, pretending I knew what was happening on the dubbed in Spanish TV program until an Indian man at the table over heard me speak. When he realized I was American, he asked the question of the hour, "What's wrong with the republicans in your country?" Everyone outside of the US is very curious about the strange events in Washington.

had some interesting insights into why the education system in the US is like the education system in Peru - both countries are run by people who have no interest in empowering the poor because they need the poor to be ignorant of their poverty and equally ignorant about how to escape it. To escape what he called the system of ignorance, this man has spent his life traveling from country to country practicing alternative medicine and learning about different cultures. When I told him about my back, he invited me to his home this weekend to hold a healing ceremony and to rub snake venom on the inflicted area.

This is one of those moments where the cultural divide is just too large. Part of me knew that this man had been following practices like this for decades, but when he said that he could take a live guinea pig and transfer the sickness inside me to the animal (causing immediate death of the animal) by passing it over my heart, my brain just couldn't comprehend. Who am I that I pretend to know more than this wise old man just because I believe in Western medicine?

After dinner, I parted ways with my new Shaman friend, and headed home. On the way, I rediscovered a store I had been to with Ali, but hadn't been able to find again until now! It is a different kind of store - everything is made by a local artist, the sales people are hands off, and all of the items are pre-labeled with fixed prices so that you don't have to ask all of the time, and so that you know you aren't being scammed for being a tourist. I bought lots of presents.

Seven hours after leaving the hostel, I was finally heading home... Until I spotted a parade. I can never miss out on a good parade, especially one with Chinese dragons, kids holding sun and moon lanterns, and the obligatory Jesus casket. As with all of the daily parades, I had no idea what this one was for, but it was particularly pretty since it was taking place at night. I tried to take pictures, but all of the sudden, I realized the parade had moved in around me and I was now a part of the ceremony. Fortunately, they were headed in the direction of my hostel, and I parted ways with the parade close to home.

Relax

I woke up feeling a lot better, so I headed to Jack's for the best french toast ever. Everything seems to taste so much better when you have not eaten for 24 hours!

This morning I decided that it won't be that much more expensive (maybe $20-25 more) to fly to Ecuador from Lima via Tame Airlines, and since I am short on time now, it will be a much better option than busing. I will just visit Northern Peru on the way back. It will save me 36 hours on a bus and I won't have to deal with the land border. My flight to Ecuador is booked for October 9. That gives me almost a month in Ecuador.

When traveling, I get a feeling that I should be making the most out of my time by constantly seeing something, or by talking to someone, or even by walking aimlessly somewhere. Lately, I have found myself pulling against that urge, realizing how nice it is just to relax or to go out to eat on my own. It makes it more like real life, and less of a travel blur.

Food Poisoning

This morning I woke up really sick with food poisoning.

For lunch, I had already planned to meet up with Liza, so we headed to a trendy pizza place where I picked at a delicious salad. It was a struggle, but I have great news! Liza booked her flight, and she is meeting me in Quito on the 16th of October. We spent the afternoon at Starbucks researching jungle tours. We chose a 4 day stay at Casa Del Suiza, and I could not be more excited. After, we will head to an amazing ranch in Cotopaxi National Park, Papaguayo, where we can hike a glacier, tour a rose farm, and swim in an emerald lagoon in a volcanic crater overlooking the Andes!! Liz is only able to stay in Cotopaxi for two nights because she has to fly home to NYC, but I booked at least 4 nights for myself.

Sick was not the way I wanted to end my stay in Cusco. I couldn't even make it to cooking class to say goodbye to everyone!

Luckily, when I went to check into my flight, I found out I somehow booked it for October 7th and not tomorrow!

I am not sure if that's really lucky as I was all set to go, but it does mean I will be able to go to movie night at Carmelita and Amy's tomorrow, and to John's birthday party on the 5th! And I will have a chance to finally eat at Korma Sutra! It will just mean I will have to rearrange my plans is all. Fortunately, Jessica is a super flexible manager and is letting me stay here for a few more days for free.